WASH: CLEANING UP OUR ACT.

First published in Focal Point Magazine, Issue 4: http://www.enterfocalpoint.com/focalpoint/?p=594

Pakistan has been dwelling in man-made and natural disasters since its creation. However, the intensity, frequency and ferocity of one disaster to another has escalated unexpectedly in the past one decade. Every disaster has increased the vulnerability of the people who are residing in disaster prone areas as every catastrophe snatches away basic essentials and livelihood from the lives of the local populace.

Basic necessity in a bad shape..

One such basic amenity which was in a miserable state and is threatened by extinction is WASH: Water, Sanitation and Hygiene, a new term coined by the third sector. Even previously i.e. before the debacles of the past one decade, the country was already suffering due to the lack of facilities in this indispensable sector. Reasons are plenty, debate on this is fruitful, but the canvas is limited, therefore I will state a few.

Firstly and fore mostly, let’s accept the truth: Pakistan is not as impoverished as the horn of Africa; the nightmare of its slow growth has surely been mismanagement of resources and the ‘red tapism’ which surrounds the way the government maneuvers. Whatever may be the burning issues related to this, the prime responsibility for this failure lies on the shoulders of the government as the people deployed for this are paid and/or elected to perform such tasks from the public money. Due to the economic backlog and mismanagement, most of the people in Balochistan are still using primitive methods to control the environmental adversary which has allowed hell to break loose on them.

The statistics clearly highlight the trouble the Pakistani population is going through due to major malpractices in this sector. The share of non-revenue water (NRW) is produced but not billed due to several reasons like leakage and illegal connections which is estimated at 35% in urban areas. The ADB reported an amount of 30% NRW in Rawalpindi and Karachi, and 42% in Lahore.

Secondly, the antagonist in all such development issues has always been lack of awareness. I can accept the argument that education should either be provided by the state on gratis or at subsidized rates by the private sector. However, I cannot agree that the only source for awareness, i.e. knowledge, lies in formal education.

The human is the most cultured creation of The Creator, but we still tend to deprive ourselves from necessities we deserve due to our non-willingness to observe the fact and act ourselves; to escape from our worldly problems, we try to seek seclusion in the masses which are already lost in cardinal ecstasy of materialism. Failing to detect and declare a problem is an opportunity cost we are paying due to our choice of living in the oblivion.

Solid waste mismanagement is spoiling the milieu for our future generations. Provinces with dense population and urban centers, such as Punjab and Sindh are vastly affected by this irreprehensible syndrome of flippancy by all. The big question mark now lies if the provinces will follow suit or waste more time in policy making than deliverance.

Thirdly, and more technically, the resources needed to keep the standards of WASH at desirable and healthier levels are not properly developed by the office bearers and the general public. The lack of a checks and balances system by the government allowed the mightier in the general public to cross boundaries and disobey the regularities placed for this sector; thus, depriving the lower income holder of facilities which they equally deserve.

This can be observed through illegal water connections and drilling of bores without permit, and through the acts of the general public who do not follow standard operating procedures in tapping natural resource. This includes water and water related services such as building resources, sewage system, and the disposal of waste irresponsibly. This creates an unhygienic environment which you and I are using at the moment. Additionally, solid waste mismanagement is spoiling the milieu for our future generations. Provinces with dense population and urban centers, such as Punjab and Sindh are vastly affected by this irreprehensible syndrome of flippancy by all.
The Pakistani Ministry of Water and Power reported in 2002 that only 1% of the domestic and industrial wastewater receives treatment.

According to the Pakistan Water Situational Analysis, there are three wastewater treatment plants in Islamabad, of which only one is functional. Karachi has two trickling filters, where effluents generally receive screening and sedimentation. Lahore has some screening and grit removal systems, but they are hardly functional. In Faisalabad, there is a wastewater treatment plant, in which wastewater receives primary treatment. In rural areas, wastewater treatment is nonexistent, leading to pollution of surface and groundwater.


The Ministry of Health, which has devolved to provinces now, is expected to set water quality standards and monitor drinking water quality in the country. Poor coordination between the ministry and other authorities had been reported previously. The Health Services Academy under the Ministry of Health published ‘Quality Drinking Water Standards for Pakistan’ in May 2007. It should be noted that these standards were not officially implemented and monitored in 2008. The big question mark now lies if the provinces will follow suit or waste more time in policy making than deliverance.

Lastly, certainly not the least, the continuous foray by man-made and natural disasters will eventually desert the population of WASH conveniences if it has not already. The wars and catastrophes such as earthquakes and floods have physically damaged the prime sources. The key in relation to this is to reduce the risk of the disaster and to produce counter measures to control the force of misfortunes.

Khyber Pakhtunkhwa has had to pay the heaviest price due to the continuous overcast conditions caused by all sort of calamities. The lack of a counter measure system to control natural disasters, such as earthquakes and floods, are also due to the stagnant foreign policy which has aggravated the war on the western border area; days of complete despair are not far away.

In 2005, Ministry of Planning and Development stated that these problems are partly a result of a policy focus on irrigation, which prevailed in the Pakistani water policy for decades. This has changed to some extent since the Medium Term Development Framework 2005-2010 was passed. The framework provides for about US$404 million per year for water supply and sanitation and is accompanied by several policy documents with the objective to notably improve water and sanitation coverage and quality. However, the level of annual investment of US$4/capita still remains much below what would be necessary to achieve a significant increase in access and service quality. Moreover, the stance can be changed and scapegoats can be created by will to throw the responsibility on personalities or departments which are currently not incumbent.

To do planning in any period during the disaster cycle, the third sector and the government should follow The Sphere Project to protect and provide WASH facilities from the force of catastrophes. Launched in 1997 by a group of humanitarian NGOs and the Red Cross and Red Crescent movement, The Sphere Project is an initiative to define and uphold the standards by which the global community responds to the plight of people affected by disasters, principally through a set of guidelines that are set out in the Humanitarian Charter and
Minimum Standards in Disaster Response (commonly referred to as the Sphere Handbook).

To do planning in any period during the disaster cycle, the third sector and the government should follow The Sphere Project to protect and provide WASH facilities from the force of catastrophes. Sphere is three things; a handbook, a broad process of collaboration, and an expression of commitment to quality and accountability.

Sphere is based on two core beliefs: first, that those affected by disaster or conflict have a right to life with dignity and therefore a right to protection and assistance. Secondly, that all possible steps should be taken to alleviate human suffering arising out of disaster and conflict. Sphere is three things; a handbook, a broad process of collaboration, and an expression of commitment to quality and accountability. There is a Chapter in Sphere Handbook by the name of Minimum Standards in Water Supply, Sanitation and Hygiene. The Section extensively covers methods to preserve and provides solutions for water supply, sanitation & hygiene promotion, excreta disposal, vector disposal, solid waste management and drainage. The handbook is readily available on the internet free of charge.

Difference in what we should drink and what we drink

This sector needs attention and the grievances should be solved because not resolving this dilemma is like dropping an axe on your own foot. Most importantly, all stakeholders including the government, private sector, and the public have to realize that it is time to act sincerely and sensibly. Moreover, the government should encourage the third sector, i.e. the nonprofit sector; to invest charity into this impecunious area of work in building infrastructure and awareness which will reap benefits and deeds for the donor/facilitator even in the life hereafter.

Problems are many, solutions are plenty and pure intention is the only remedy. Let’s stop digging our graves to the point of no return. SAVE your blessings.

Ishq aur Dar Ki Guftugu

Pyaar Karda hai tu,

Khulke Izhaar Kyun nai Karda?

O,

Darda O ey jinnu khauf ey apni kamzori da.

Mein tey Khadim aan,

Darda aan mein,

Dar hee gawai dendi ey meri mohabbat di.

Majboori vich bahaney karda ey apni Bebassi de?

Ro ke faryad hun karda ey Rihai di?

Rihai O hai jo dikhai dendi pai hai,

Magar phirvi, tu jhala phirda ey?

Dar de naal hun aggey bhi jaan le,

Rihai da Raaz hun tu bhi jaan le,

Hun Mohabbat Karan tu bhi Jaan le.

Mohabbat nal wekhna ey,

Aey teri load ey,

Teri kui khawaish nai,

Aey samjhney di load ey.

Wekh O Nain tow,

jo vusdey ney terey dil mein.

O nain gawai dein dey ney...

Ke, Haq hee sirf honda ey,

Bakki sub terey nazar da dokha ey,

Jis nazar vich dil di nazar nai,

O Banda, dil tow andha hounda ey.

Mohabbat vich Rihai ey,

Kuch samjh tenu hun ayi ey?

Gal teri Hun Samjh ayi ey,

Par aey tu phirvi jaan le,

Dar phirvi gawai denda ey meri mohabbat di.

Hun Menu Samjh ayi,

Tey Hun Tenu Bhi Samjh avvey gi,

Meri Mohabbat vi hun gawai dendi hai merey houn di.

Mohabbat Gawai dendi ey merey Darr di.

Ishq aur Darr hun dost hainn,

Ishq aur Darr hun kendein ney:

Merey Rab di Oonchi Shaan ey,

Hub tey Dar meri Rooh di Ghaza hai,

Hub tey Dar mein meri faryaad ey,

Hub tey Dar meri Rooh di Ghaza hai.

Bhook ey menu us Qurb di,

Jisnu tu wekhanda ey,

Nishani Apney Houn di.

O Akhiyan de sub nu jo wekh sakey Nishani Terey Houn di.

O Akhiyan de sub nu jo samjdi ney Ishq aur Dar load hai,

Hur Insaan di..

Ishq Aur Dar Which Rihai Allah di Kainat di..

There is no one except Him.

There is a greed for your words,

Those lies which I want to hear in the shape of words,

The words which feeds content to the desires I have in this dying world,

The words which negates me from The Realm of The One,

Whose name is just a One Word.

Your words of greed extinguish my need,

But if you are a man who knows about the keys,

For him, disconnection comes to a cease,

It creates the need to heed and seek,

Its time for you to exceed and succeed.

Need becomes to fuel your success,

Success reduces the excess,

The greed is now not a source of access,

The greed was actually never a source of access.

Greed of the words which negate the artificial world,

Is what you need.

It helps you to enter The Realm,

The Realm of The Truth,

Where there is nothing but just The Truth,

Solely, led by The Truth.

It tells you that The Truth begins with a No,

To inform you of the disavowal,

To acquaint you of the avowal,

To take you from disavowal,

To lead you to the avowal.

Shows you the start and the end,

That there is no one but Him,

That There is Only Him and no one except Him.

You are freed,

Freed from the greed of the words which misled,

Now you are a slave never to be misled.

Now you are a slave which can never be misled.

Path to Islam

Banjao Rasta E Deen,

Phir Dunya Bhi Hai Deen,

Bun Jaye ga Tumhara Yakeen,

Banjao gay tum Rasta E Deen.

Yakeen hai Tumhara Deen,

Phir Deen hai Tumhara Yakeen,

Iman hai agar tumhara pakka,

To Tor do gey Hur Eent.

Rasta hai tumhari maang,

Manzil hai tumhari aas,

Chal paro ab hur haal,

Ajazi hai tumhari dhaal,

Miljayega tumko Rasta E Deen.

Banjao gay tum Rasta E Deen.

Jub tabah karogey Jagti Neend,

Pao gey Mukamal Deen,

Aur Wohi hai tumhara Deen.

Safar karlo apna poora,

Sabar aur Shukar thofa hai poora,

Deen to Hai Mukamal,

Yehi to hai Yakeen.

Banjao gay tum Rasta E Deen,

Ab Mukamal hai tumhara Yakeen.

Ab Mukamal hai tumhara Yakeen.

Banda Bhuka Hounda Ey, Banda - Banda Hounda Ey.

Roza tu Kesey Rakhey ga,

Raazi tu Kesey Karey ga,

Bhukka Hai tu Shaurat da,

Ab tu Ki Karey ga is Mohlat da.

Bhukka Hai Tu Dolat da,

Faqeer hai Tu Budh Parasti Da,

Roza tu Kesey Rakhey ga,

Ab tu Ki Karey ga is Mohlat da.

Itnay saarey Qaabiz Nu,

Dafa Kesey karey ga tu,

Raazi tu Kesey Karey ga,

Ab tu Ki Karey ga is Mohlat da.

Ishq di dori pharley tu,

Fir Wekh Apnay Qaabiz Nu.

Hik Hik Karke Qaabiz Hun Nasde ney,

Shaurat Aur Dolat Hun Ron de ney.

O wekh! Terey Kol Teri Baddi Vi hun Nasdi Ey,

Dolat aur Shaurat Hun kuch nai Lendi ey.

Roza tu kesa nai rakhey ga,

Raazi tu kesay nai karey ga,

Bhook tey hun teri mit gayi Ey,

Fir Mohlat hun kisnu chaiydi ey.

Pyasa hai tu Us Nazar da,

Sunna hai tenu Haq,

Tenu Mohlat nai,

Tenu tey Dil to wekhney di Nazar Chaidi Ey.

Tu Dil to Andha nai,

Teri tey Akheeyan Khulni Baaki Hain.

Jo Aey Gul Samjde ney,

O Jaan Leinde ney,

Allah Nu terey khaaney di nai teri Ghulaami chaiydi Ey.

Teri Kismat Vich Usnu to Sirf teri Bhalai Chaidi hai..

Fir tu ki Lubda phir da ey,

Jub Usnu apna bunda chaida ey.

(Allah knows the best...)

Gilla Tu Dadda Karda Ey?

Oochiyan Oochiyan Urawan bharda ey,

Kol tu nai wekhda ey,

Gallan tu waddiyan waddiyan karda ey,

Chup da roza nai rakhda ey,

Phir tu gilla bhi dadda karda ey,

Khuda gal nai saadi Sunda ey.

Urawan chad,

Gal Chad,

Kol beth,

Tey Roza Rakh,

Gal zara hun ghour se sun.

Nafrat O terey se karda Nai,

Gilla bhi dadey karda Nai,

Kenda Ey Pahr le Seedha rasta Haq da,

Faisla karda Ey O Adal da.

Gal hun tu karey ga changi,

Kisi de naal nai karey ga mandi,

Oye! hun tu Kinnu dhundta Ey,

O tey terey Koul hee Renda Ey,

Haan Akheen teri Band Ey,

Tey Rihai bhi terey Koul Ey.

Hun Gilla Nai Kar tu,

Sun O Teri Sunda Ey,

Sun O tey Teri Sunda Ey,

Phirvi Gilla Tu He Karida Ey.

Kamoshi Bhi teri Nangi ey,

Dillan Dey Haal O hee janda Ey,

Usdo Kui Gal Nai Choop Di Ey.

Aey Gal Tu hun Samjhi Ey.

Gilla Na Kar Usde Badley Shukar kar,

Kyun Ke Khuda Hee Teri Sunda Ey.

Mouqa Bhi Kismat Waley Nu Denda Ey,

Jisdi Kismat vich O Likh denda Ey.

Firvi naa shukari tu hee karda Ey?

Tey fir vee O tenu dasda Ey,

Tey fir vee O tenu bachaan da Ey,

Urrawan bhi tuhee karda Ey,

Gallan bhi wadiyan tuhee karda Ey,

Phir Gilla Bhi tuhee karda Ey,

Ke O teri nai Sunda Ey?

O Sunda tey teri Sunda hai,

Tu Kisdi Sunda ey,

Usdi chad ke Nafs aur Shaytan di Sunda Ey,

Kyun nai Gal tu samjda ey,

Khuda Tera Woh Jo Sub ki Sunta hai.

Chor De Apni Ghulaami nu,

Maar de Iblees Di hur Karwai nu , Ghulaami to sirf Usdi Hondi Ey,

Jo Gal Subdi Sunda Ey,

Jo Gal Subdi Sunda Ey.

(O Sub Janda Ey, Sub se Behtar O Hee Janda Ey.)

Kee Lubda ey?

Seclusion...

Momin di taalash wich Insaniyat nu bhool gaye,
Na idhar de rahey na udhar de,
Ab naukri kar, nakhrey chad,
Allah nu yaad kar, sajda kar ... tey pehley hun banda bun!

Chor de Khudai nu, Aey Usi tey changi lugdi ey,
Aey takabar terey tey nai sajdda, shakal teri changi bhali hai;
Na kar bherrra innu, bawein jahan tenu akkhey...Aey takkabar terey tey nai sajda, hun tey akal karley.



Wekh! O terey kol hee hai... magar, tu pehley hun banda bun...

Pakistan’s Ugly Duckling

First published in Focal Point Magazine Issue 3: http://www.enterfocalpoint.com/focalpoint/?p=388

The Ugly Duckling” is a literary fairy tale by Danish poet and author Hans Christian Andersen first published in 1843. The story tells of a homely little bird born in a barnyard who suffers abuse and neglect. But, much to his delight (and to the surprise of others), he matures into a beautiful swan, the most beautiful bird of all. The story is beloved around the world as a tale about personal transformation for the better despite challenges.

Have we been treating our educational system with the same abuse and neglect? If we don’t start proper nurturing of education and continue to leave it out in the cold, it will eventually collapse or it may fly away and bloom elsewhere as told in the story. And you may note, many of our bright minds do just that by going abroad and succeeding when they are direly needed here. But this is a story is of hope, perseverance and a strong message.

Education is the heart and life blood of development. Without it, Pakistan will remain an impoverished and a weak third world country. If education is not allowed to prevail, the problems in Pakistan will reach at a stage which will make this country very vulnerable; if it has not already. It is very important to focus and provide education to the masses as it is the only way to uplift poverty and uplift economic indicators in the country.

Statistically, Pakistan has made a reasonable march since independence in many fields including education. Less than 1 million students were enrolled in schools at the time of independence, astonishingly, today 12 million school-age children are enrolled. But there are another 12 million children who are working out of necessity. Many times, this puts their lives in danger and causes them to miss quality education. As a matter of fact, full enrollment at primary education is still not a reality, but a very distant dream – and to curtail child labor is also just that.

The recent census of China and India show that Pakistan is substantially behind the two larger Asian powerhouses in education. China’s literacy rate is nearing 90% and India has reached above 65%. Pakistan is still around 50 percent. This surely means our progress has not been up to the mark. Moreover, the statistics in India and China surely embarrass us vehemently, as our performance should have been better as we had lesser population. Also, we were not as big as China and India in terms of geographical area; therefore, we should have had more resources to be invested per capita.

Let’s shift our focus over to the provinces and see the standards. Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa (formerly known as NWFP), Baluchistan and Sindh were very much behind in terms of everything at the time of independence in 1947. By now many universities have opened in these three provinces but sadly, the female literacy rate is still less than 30% in these provinces. The resources in Punjab were surely enough to make the province achieve the 100% target, but feudal, bureaucratic and political forces did not put resources to effective use. Efforts from Pervaiz Elahi, ‘Parha Likha Punjab’ did not work out as there was a lack of commitment from the stakeholders while the MMA government’s effort in Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa managed to increase just 1% of literacy rate in a period of 5 years.

The new setup which took over after the demise of the dictatorship had a huge task to spread and strengthen education. Unfortunately, the performance is nothing the incumbent leaders can be proud of. There were several reasons for their failure in this field. Firstly and foremostly, the focus of the country have been foreign relations, War on Terror, and maintaining a policy of reconciliation with the allies and opposition parties. Focus on these issues has literally left the current government without time and resources to invest on education. Furthermore, the natural and man-made disasters, in the shape of floods and displacements, became the last straw on the camel’s back.

Secondly, like previous governments, the current one has not been able to put the resources to work aptly. Education in Pakistan is overseen by Ministry of Education of Government of Pakistan. The academic institutions are the responsibility of the provincial governments whereas the federal government mostly assists in curriculum development, accreditation and some financing of research. The provincial governments have failed miserably in upgrading the system to accommodate more students and the central government has not been successful in enhancing the curriculum, accreditation, research and in passing on their achievements to be implemented by the provincial governments.

The root cause for this lack of achievement – public expenditure on education lies on the fringes of 2% of GDP only. However, the government recently approved the new national education policy, which stipulates that education expenditure will be increased to 7% of GDP, an idea that was first suggested by the Punjab government. The most important questions are: Is the current force hired to implement the policy capable to pull of the activities written down in the new national education policy? Is the dedication to bring a positive change present in those who have the reigns on the horses? One should be optimistic, but after the exit of old cabinet, no full fledge minister has been selected to lead the education sector from the government. In its current state, the old leader Mir Hazar Khan Bijrani, a full fledge minister, was asked to resign due to the unpopularity of the cabinet. Now, Ghulam Farid Kathia has been chosen as Minister of State for this ministry.

Turnkey solutions have to be formulated and implemented in order to generate positive results. Firstly, awareness campaigns should be initiated so that the public, especially from the rural areas, should send both their sons and daughters to schools rather than to work, so that they and their children gain in the future due to this timely investment. Secondly, the root causes for the spread of evil activities in the society and production of ideologically corrupt mindsets is due to the lack of education only. People with vested interests target the illiterate for defaming Islam, the society and the culture. Because of this, such enemies are at large. This is allowed to gain success in the society because people do not have the capability to distinguish between right and wrong; the capability which defines the essence of education.

Additionally, lack of education has not spared any sector but has majorly affected the fiscal and economic sector. As the general public is usually not qualified, they are unable to run businesses appropriately and compete within and outside the country. During the time of a crisis, they are forced to shut down, eventually, because they lack the ability to identify the reasons for their loss; this causes them to lose hope instead of the will of trying to improve tactics which can benefit their lives and businesses. In today’s global world, education is a pre-requisite to get empowered. Without it, we will not be able to promote our industries, products and services.

Another debacle which hits us quite often is that the definition of literacy gets changed in our country at the will of the planners so that the figures can be molested with ease. This activity is carried out in order to show that the current or previous regimes made landmark achievements in the field of education. For example, they say someone who can read and write is literate. At times they say a person who has reached 5th grade standard is a literate. Once, it was also believed that a person who could calculate is also a literate  so everyone who knows 2+2=4 is literate, yes this is how silly it can be!

There are many organizations  from government to semi governement to non profit to businesses  which are trying to provide qualitative improvement in education to bring a social change which takes the community towards enormous success in the future. Beaconhouse Education System, Punjab Educational Endowment Fund, Taaleem Foundation and many more self motivated organizations and individuals have adopted the task to improve the quality of education from Islamabad  which enjoys a 87% literacy rate  to Kohlu which has one of the lowest literacy rates in the country  just 20%.

Education has been treated as the ugly duckling by the stakeholders – from the government to the general public. Even after six decades we haven’t realized that the religion adopted by this country emphasizes most on gaining knowledge. In fact the first revelation to Prophet Muhammad (PBUH) encouraged him to read. But, the treatment it has received over the years surely signifies that this ugly duckling will transform into a beautiful and graceful swan soon. Achieving 100 % literacy is not a reality but a dream, and only those nations succeed who dare to dream. To transform this dream into reality, we have to take actions for a uniformed qualitative educational system provided by state to churn out the future leaders of Pakistan.

True Warriors...

Found this heaven on my way to Zhob from Loralai

I should have written this long time ago, but as soon as I returned from Balochistan, I was caught in the cage and chains from which everyone tries to escape from. Nevertheless, it is a constant struggle to break the shackles of urban life, to get freed is not as easy as we think because our enemy is within us; the enemy which we feed with our own hands – the materialistic self ego.

To defeat this sonofagun, one has to get rid of the fuel and the vehicle it rides on to command and control every aspect of our life and body. It needs to be starved and maybe that is the reason why we are told to fast. To completely let it go, food intake control is always not enough, we need to switch off the world outside us to realize the world inside us; the world where no one exists i.e. where you find Him and find yourself in seclusion.

During my recent trip to Balochistan, I found such places of seclusion; especially, on the way to Zhob from Loralai through the deserted roads constructed most probably by the British from Mekhter Junction. I desired to stop, sit, think and desired to self realize and find Him to find peace. Though, I believe one has to travel in order to redefine oneself, but I realized it is not about my peace of mind anymore; I believe it’s not about give and take anymore, its just about giving and that is how one can reach salvation.

On my way to Zhob through the deserted plains and mountainous havens, I did not panic once. Well, I did not have another choice and I do well when I do not have much option. It took 6 hours of ‘off roading’ to cover 218 kilometers where life ceased to exist most of the time. But, at times, from nowhere a young shepherd with his flock of sheep used to come, stare at me and shock me for a while and my usual question to my driver Rasheed Lala used to be: “Ye Kahan se aya, Lala?” (From where did he come?)…

Rasheed Lala in his usual chuckling tone, “Pata nai yaar” (Don’t know friend...)

For most of the time, there was no road, after travelling for 3 hours down the tranquil atmosphere, we reached at Murgha Kibzai – surely a ghost town. From Murgha Kibzai, one road turns towards Zhob and the other one towards Musakhail District. We had tea over there and I interviewed the chap, Sakhi Jaan (generous life, yeah I know the translation doesn’t make much sense), who runs a ‘hotel’ (restaurants are usually called hotels in Pakistan). He has been running it for decades and showed me the delicacies he cooks day in day out. Took his photographs and showed him the pictures on my digital camera, surely the technology astonished him and I could see him moving around with his chest lifted a tinge. He was telling his customers that the story of his hotel would be published in Islamabad. I told him, the world will know about it, not just Islamabad.

Throughout the route, I decided to sustain myself to laugh until I see life everywhere once again i.e. until I see Zhob. Lala did not show a sign of irritation when I constantly reminded him of his long lost love, losing the track and that we have certainly lost our way and are in Afghanistan. After going through which many will term as ‘an ordeal’, I reached Zhob, that too in the Cantonment Area, relief!  Zhob was known as Fort Sandeman long back, Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto changed its name to Zhob. I stayed at “The Castle” built by Lord Sandeman once again - as it was my second trip - but it did not excite me much this time round. I guess I am used to living like a king whenever I visit Zhob.

My next stop was Sui, which is in Dera Bugti, where I have heard people are against Punjabis, I was born in an Arab country which did not give me nationality, so I am from the Punjab province due to descent, that means I am in trouble. This was a problem and was the biggest one without doubt - I had no idea how to deal with it. The flight from Zhob to Karachi via Quetta was no doubt the worst flight I ever took – I had never witnessed so much turbulence during a flight. A medical team was called to check the condition of the Captain, when the flight stopped at Quetta; that is how bad it was. The flight to Sui was the worst, the Beech 1900 plane is an 18 seater plane, size of a drawing room above the average size, and when it flew through the air pockets in Dera Bugti, the plane used to lose altitude of more than 20 – 30 feet in one go. I asked for forgiveness throughout the flight and begged to be given another chance in life.

As soon as I reached Sui, I was welcomed by a young guy we have recently employed at Taaleem Foundation. We have thrown a Lahori dude to work in Sui and he is certainly not there just for money, the passion to succeed through the hardest channel is surely his desire, in fact I believe he has decided that it is his need to make the two ends meet in this fashion. I call people like him professionals and that’s how one should make a career i.e. by living like a dare devil. Our Sui School is run by an enthralling couple which decided to serve in Dera Bugti as soon as they graduated and got married. The adventure for them is still continuing and from the look of it they are enjoying the experience like anything. Providing education, that too English medium in a co education atmosphere in Balochistan is surely an adventure in every aspect; in which they thoroughly rejoice.

Anyways, I saw security guards, army personnel and FC guards in less than 2 kilometer of travel from the airport to the school. Due to the gas field, Sui is a highly protected area. For those who have forgotten or do not know, Sui is in Dera Bugti District where we get our CNG and cooking gas from and the operation was launched on Nawab Akbar Bugti and his followers by the sense less and the most useless President of Pakistan – General Pervez Musharraf - in its vicinity. 

I thought I would camouflage myself and the beard did help a great deal. But, I wanted to run back to the Airport as soon as I got to know that the last name of my driver in Sui was Bugti. For a second, I did panic, because here I was standing at the core where all the insurgency, hatred and separatist movements began and shook all parts of Balochistan and I was being told that a Bugti was going to take me around! But, I do well when I do not have much option and decided to live this one out.

To my surprise, the young boy was really humble and he did not have any feelings against me or my race, some still say he was hiding it. But, I could see it that this was not the case. Yes, Nawab was his leader, a leader he respected so much that he could have given his life; maybe I think. But, I was a guest and guarding me and providing me hospitality was a matter of honor too.

Coming back to Sui, you can fry an egg on the roof top of your car in Sui, that’s how hot it is in Sui; I usually preferred to stay indoors. Qadeer Saab, a senior and experienced teacher at our school and a funny character, did a good job at convincing me to go to Dera Bugti and I would have gone if I had more time. I have to go to Dera Bugti town the next time I come which is just 40 kms from Sui town; for now I convinced him to show me Sui – the Sui which was at the other side of the secured fencing area. We left without guards and he showed all the meaningful places over there. The Bugti fellow was with us too who drove us to the Military College Sui and other historical places such as the Bugti palace which is now under the control of security forces. The Army has recently opened a college and after 6 years the first batch of “Hub-ul-Watan” 30 captains would pass out, which the local populace has appreciated a lot, to my surprise.

We took some cold drinks to get some respite from the killing summer heat in the middle of the bazaar and nothing happened to me and to the other two Punjabis with me. After not being shot at the bazaar, I concluded the gist of the Balochistan situation: people over there do not hate us as we are told by the news we see scrolling day and night on our television sets, actions have to be taken to see that basic amenities are provided and the court has to provide justice they have been waiting to hear for more than a couple of years. I headed off to Karachi from there in the same aircraft, the journey was no better than the previous one, but as I said I do well when I do not have much options.

“I do well when I do not have much option”, I have said that more than a couple of times during this blog. You must be wondering why? Well, I learnt that due to Masood Baluch a.k.a. Munna Bhai. He was one of the first sophisticated Baluchs I met in my life, a (he is going to love this one) young and an energetic fellow who has done MBA and when he starts talking or working, even the whites wonder “Aey kitho aya hai?” (From where did he come?), you rarely find such species in Baluch people or in any race for that matter. But, he has got a problem; this guy gets confused whenever he has to choose a restaurant for dinner. For hours, at times, we used to roam around on the roads of Sharjah in wee hours to decide whether we should eat fast food, arabi, desi, pizza, meat, vegetables, lentils, spicy, Chinese, Italian, Indian, Ghora, Ghadda, Insaan … and the attitude did not change a bit till I was there. Now, he is married and I guess his better half has been successful somehow to tame the fellow. There were so many options and Munna Bhai over there; that I realized I can never do well when options are available because I used to be as confused as he used to be due to the availability of so many options!

I was meeting with him after sometime and it is always a pleasure to meet this Baluch family which I consider mine. Met her sister - who I consider as my phuppo (aunt) - and stayed at their place for two nights. After a long trip in Balochistan covering more than 2000 kilometers on the road it was good to be at home with people who are more close to me than my family at times. Shared my experiences of the war, the wild and the wilderness and heard some old stories from their side.

The one which I will end this blog with is going to shape my life, if it has not already, and of many others. This is from the experience they shared in Karachi round about 1 AM, the perfect time for such talks:


(Get your bowl of popcorn and drinks...)

My Phuppo went to Iraq to become a doctor. Everything was going merry go lucky in Baghdad. Unfortunately, the First Gulf War started round about the same time. I have always known her as an iron lady, but never knew her courage was much more beyond what I had perceived. She decided not to leave Iraq because she did not want to lose a year of education, such dedication is not easily digestible, please bear I can understand your how tough this is to believe. But, this is true.

She decided to stay and she informed her family that her decision is final. She decided to grab the bull by the horns and tame it into a pussy cat, her family lost contact with her for full 6 months which was an ordeal for all parties. She survived bomb attacks, missile attacks and “you-name-it” and she survived it boi! She used to ‘dry’ the food – tomatoes, bread and other vegetables – with her cousins on roof tops and survived on it for months. At times, the bread used to get so hard that it was hard to bite and digest. She came up with a solution, she cooked a stew which was as good as boiled water and all the survivors used to dip the bread in it, make it soft and gulp it down. Well, I can never praise her for that effort. 


When they were out of supplies, they just used to have one glass of milk as their only meal for the day. At times, they had to shift into bunkers during heavy fighting; one such bunker got hit and could not survive the hit. More than 5000 people burned to death not due to the after effects of a missile attack, but due to the hot water system in the bunker which got jolted due to the hit. The dead were not taken out, the smell was too unpleasant.

The sacrifice she made to achieve her dream is what we need from future leaders of Pakistan and what we need to do ourselves. I might be wrong, but I guess her dream was not just to become a doctor, as she has Baluch blood running in her body, she is a fighter by descent and did not want to escape when the tough becomes toughest straightaway, I don’t even know that has she realized this or not up till now, but chances are that she has not because being strong physically and mentally is a natural instinct of a Baluch. She could not disown the land which was not even hers, this was the country which promised to educate her when the rest refused or did not bother.

When she arrived back to her family, at the airport, there was a crowd to welcome the hero back. She told an airport official, pointing at the waiting lounge, from left to right, from one point to the end. “You see over there, that is my family which has come from all parts to welcome and receive me”, the official at the airport was spell bound, I was spell bound; I had tears of joy in my eyes, though I could not let it out because the Baluchs would have harassed me for the rest of my life, as I was living the moment there and then. Phuppo, I feel I was there at the airport, I felt I was there to receive you…

Such people I look up to. Such true warriors I meet everyday in my life. Such people He has decided that I have to take lessons from and I can only testify that we think that we plan and carry out what we do, but in reality He plans and we do what He commands; no doubt He is The Best Planner and we are nothing...